This is a shot of the inside of the noses, showing the wiring added. This area will be visible through the nose glazing. I didn’t try to replicate every wire and brace, just enough to give it a busy look. Messy!
This view shows the instrument panels. The panel for the Hasegawa kit (left, dark plastic) was too small for the opening, and a problem to fit. If I were starting again, I would thin the upper nose from the inside, and scratch a panel to fit. The Revell panel was fitted to a separate upper nose, and the assembly just snaps into place. The fuselage decking at the rear of the canopy will need some clean up on both kits.
Here’s a shot of the fuselage sections from above. The Revell kit has a separate insert for the upper deck, which allows them to mold all the filler access caps. The Hasegawa kit makes an attempt at most of the caps, but they are very, very faint due to the mold angle, and will be sanded off when removing the seam in any case. Some of the AIMS decal sheets for the Ju 88 have the caps as a decal for those who want to go that way. The DF array is handled differently by each manufacturer. Both have decals for the antenna itself, it will be interesting to compare the final appearance. Revell also provides clear parts for the FuG 10 and FuG 16 antenna deployment ports on the upper fuselage. The Hasegawa kit has two spars to support the wings, these are each a single piece which is continuous through the fuselage, and results in a very solid assembly. This view also shows a correction needed to the Hasegawa kit – the underside of the fuselage under the cockpit on the starboard side is molded solid. This area was cut out with a Dremel tool, as it should be open to the gondola below.
There is a great deal of difference in the level of detail on the engine nacelles, the Revell is much finer. The Hasegawa kit has the cowl flaps molded open, but the forward nacelle is quite fiddly to assemble. Also, I found a better fit was achieved for the entire nacelle when the locating ridge molded into the wing / nacelle fillet was removed and filed smooth. The Revell kit fit without any difficulty. On the plus side, a nice option in the Hasegawa kit is the shrouded exhaust, which I will fit after painting.
The wheel wells are engineered differently on each kit. On the Revell, the gear supports are molded into the underside of the upper wing, on the Hasegawa they are separate parts. This is fortunate, as the main supports for the Hasegawa gear sit too far aft when installed. Here I have added Plastistruct tubing to improve the position the forward gear legs. A better solution would have been to cut the support piece in half before installation and correct the spacing then, but I didn’t catch the problem in time. Hopefully you will be better prepared!
The Jumo 211 engines were inlines, and had an annular radiator mounted to their fronts giving them the appearance of radials. The radiators were not continuous, but had open sections to provide air for other uses. The Revell faces have these openings molded in, but the Hasegawa faces are solid. Here I have cut the openings in the Hasegawa pieces, but in the process I managed to ruin one and had to cast a resin replacement. Oy! Revell has the carburetor inlet duct already molded in the left side opening, the smaller duct on the right sides were added with Plastistruct.
One on-line review mentioned ejector pin marks in the dive brakes. The review was in error, the oval depressions are actually part of the structure. The dive brakes in both kits are narrower than the drawings in Trojca’s Junkers Ju 88 vol 1. Both kits have the brakes molded solid instead of slatted. The picture shows PE brakes intended for the old Italeri Ju 188 for comparison.
Last is a shot comparing the tails. There is a pronounced knuckle at the top of the Hasegawa tail, but a few passes with a file should fix that. The Revell tail is slightly wider at the base, off by about 1 mm compared to the drawings in Trojca. Both have really nice detail, as can be seen.
Part III here: