





Scale models, where they come from, and people who make them
Scale diorama tips and ideas
Let's build, and build again even if you won't build everything you have bought
A futile fight against entropy or 'Every man should have a hobby'? Either way it is a blog on tabletop wargames, board games and megagames
World War II with Scale Models
This is my ad free non-profit blog of my research notes on military history since April 2018.
Moving with the tides of history
Building and improving scale models
WHENEVER ANY FORM OF GOVERNMENT BECOMES DESTRUCTIVE OF THESE ENDS (LIFE,LIBERTY,AND THE PURSUIT OF HAPPINESS) IT IS THE RIGHT OF THE PEOPLE TO ALTER OR ABOLISH IT, AND TO INSTITUTE A NEW GOVERNMENT― Thomas Jefferson
Let's build and build again
This WordPress.com site is Pacific War era information
Scale Modeling and Military History
Like I have nothing else to do in my life
History and Hardware of Warfare
The best in WWII aviation history
Scale Modeling and Military History
Relaxed kind of plastic scale modelling
Scale Modeling and Military History
Scale Modeling and Military History
Scale Modeling and Military History
Scale Modeling and Military History
Scale Modeling and Military History
Scale Modeling and Military History
Scale Modeling and Military History
Scale Modeling and Military History
Scale Modeling and Military History
A blog about Modeling and life in general
All coming along nicely, Jeff! 🙂 Your comment on black is interesting – I very rarely use black on figures/vehicles/ships and usually opt for black-grey on smaller scale stuff.
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You can make a similar argument for white, or other “bright” colors. IMHO they should be toned down a little for scale effect in most cases one way or another.
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Tamiya NATO Black is my “go to” for off black.
I have a build to come that’s going to have a black fuselage, I’m going to have to come up with 4-6 shades of black for it. 🙂
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I agree, solid colors should show variation or they end up looking like toys.
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Thanks so much for posing the a/c with the paints you’re using for those of us whose paint stash will need these.
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It’s a common question, and I’ll forget which colors I used myself in a few weeks and have to figure it out all over again. The ol’ memory’s not what it used to be!
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..I’m finding a little strange that you attach the gear legs… .but not the wheels. Seems like that’s asking for trouble. I always put both on together – after painting – to ensure the ‘sit’ is correct and the model is strong enough to support the handling that comes with decalling especially..
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Yes, I go back and forth with all that. I prefer to stick a rod in the nose to act as a handle while painting, I put the gear on these so the paint could dry. I find the wheels just give me something bigger to hit and knock off.
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A suggestion for the future: if you do your painting the exact opposite of what you have done here, you will vastly reduce the amount of masking you are forcing yourself to do. Do all the small stuff – the ID stripes, the antiglare panel, the D-Day stripes, etc., FIRST, then mask them off (which is far easier than masking off the entire airframe), then paint the overall airframe colors.
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I usually do it that way on most schemes, but you can see the layers under the Alclad on NMF finishes. I’ve done it intentionally to vary the tone of panels on larger aircraft, the Alclad takes on a different sheen depending on what’s under it.
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